Trends

Why Are Undercover Cops Wearing Such Bad Disguises?

When it comes to their clothes, Birzer says that “for those types of assignments, [departments select] people that are going to reflect the individuals in the crowd. So if it’s a young group, younger age people predominantly in the group, they’re going to send younger officers in there that can kind of blend in better.”

So departments tell officers to wear their own clothes? “That’s pretty much it,” Birzer says. “If you’re working in a covert assignment, you want to wear clothes that kind of ‘fit in’ better. There’s no prescribed policy that you wear jeans or this or that—it’s just [based on] the situation.” In other words, this is, indeed, officers’ best impression of what a “normal” protester looks like.

As policing has become more militarized over the past two decades, with an emphasis on terrorism prevention, covert work has proliferated—and its message more tangled. Initially, undercover work was

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André 3000’s Iconic Jumpsuits Are Turning Into Charitable T-Shirts

Back in 2014, OutKast’s long-awaited run of reunion shows, rap iconoclast André 3000 swapped out his next-level style for something a little starker: a series of black jumpsuits with bold graphic statements printed across the front. Some were political and provoking (“across cultures, darker people suffer most. why?”) while others skewed positively quirky (“replace your toothbrush”). Now, the hip-hop and style legend is selling T-shirts with many of the same slogans, with 100% of the net profits going to support the organization Movement for Black Lives. The limited-edition collection was announced earlier today, and will only be available for the next three days via André 3000’s official website.

Courtesy of André 3000

The eye-catching jumpsuits have developed a bit of a passionate following in the years since their debut. First, all 47 jumpsuits from the original run were shown at Art Basel in December 2014, and then

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How to Raise a Million Bucks for Charity with T-Shirts, According to Brain Dead’s Kyle Ng

So I hit up our friend Dev Hynes [of Blood Orange] and was like, “Yo, are you cool to do this?” And he’s like, “Fuck yeah.” We made it a T-shirt in the next two hours and we launched it the next day. There’s something about that energy of just being able to create stuff very fluidly with your friends that I think is so important.

People felt that energy—it was almost a subconscious energy, and you could tell it wasn’t coming from some corporate campaign or structure. Right now, the people are really the strength and if you support the people they’ll support you.

What’s the story behind the design?
We were like, “What should it say?” He gave us the idea for the Blood Orange graphic, but then the main thing was the back, and we weren’t really sure what to put there. And then his girlfriend [and

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Nancy Pelosi and the End of Fashion Diplomacy

Oops, she did it again.

On Monday, Nancy Pelosi appeared on Capitol Hill to announce the Democratic Party’s police reform legislation in an outfit that told us exactly what she’s thinking about. Like her fellow Democrats, Pelosi complemented her festive, tomato-red pant suit with Kente cloth, the Ghanaian striped textile. The cloth, one supposes, was meant as a show of solidarity with the black community that has been systematically brutalized by police. But when the camera panned out to show Democrats taking a knee in silence for eight minutes and 46 seconds in honor of George Floyd, the image of congressmen, including several older white men, wearing a traditional African textile made for an odd sight. (A photo of Senator Cory Booker, who opted not to wear one, with his brow furrowed, went mildly viral.)

The Kente stoles were distributed to Democrats by the Congressional Black

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Nine Fundraising T-Shirts That Join the Great Tradition of Radical Streetwear

On the one hand, if you have few extra bucks, the best way to join the fight against police brutality is to make a direct donation. But you can vote in other ways with your wallet, too—by supporting black-owned brands, or by steering your dollars to goods for a cause. One way to do that: the humble, radical graphic tee. Streetwear labels, skate brands, and even a few fashion lines have a long history of practicing meaningful activism through T-shirts, from Katharine Hamnett’s “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING” shirt, which the designer wore to a meeting with Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher to protest the proliferation of nuclear missiles in Europe, to Supreme’s 2001 T-shirt commemorating the death of anti-globalization activist Carlo Giuliani. T-shirt activism has more recently been one of fashion’s more questionable practices—an easy box to check, satisfying the industry’s halfhearted calls for change—but a number of GQ

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60 Black-Owned Fashion Labels and Clothing Stores You Can Shop Right Now

There’s a lot of work to be done in the fight against systemic racism and police brutality against Black Americans. You can protest, vote, battle for policies aimed at ending discrimination in law enforcement, call local government officials, and donate—if you can, whatever you can—to bail funds and other vital organizations. (We have some suggestions, if you need ’em.) And while you’re thinking about where you can put your money to work, it makes sense to apply that same consideration to your closet, too. To that end, we’ve put together a (by no means complete) list of black-owned fashion labels and clothing stores. Whether you’re looking for a fit-worthy sweatsuit or a masterfully crafted business suit, start here next time you’re stocking up.


In just seven short years, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has built Pyer Moss into one of the most vital and consequential fashion labels in America.

Johnny

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