Another big question: Is it that a designer either has to be a celebrity—like Marc Jacobs or Rick Owens or Abloh—or use a celebrity? I’ve also noticed Bottega Veneta dressing more rappers—Migos at this weekend’s BET Awards, for example, and they put Scott on the cover of their most recent zine. Fashion’s relationship with celebrity isn’t by nature problematic: it seems mostly good that Jay Z wears and invests in Rhude, and Harry Styles wears Bode, and Travis Scott buys those out-there A-Cold-Wall warcore vests. But is there a way to stage a blockbuster fashion moment without forcing those kinds of connections?
In fact, the designers who are thriving right now are the ones who are thinking small and personal, and who are in the process of fundamentally rewriting the role of the fashion designer. Hedonism has always been in Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe DNA—he’s a cute guy who grew up