One thing everyone gets wrong about the ’70s—not that I was there, but I’ve seen a lot of documentaries and read a ton about drugs—is how much everyone was moving around. It wasn’t merely that everyone was at Studio 54. No, they were dancing at Studio 54. They were going from dinner at Le Bœuf sur le Toit to late-hours ragers at Le Palace. And people moved on the runway, too: models like Pat Cleveland brought physical expression to Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo shows and illustrator Antonio Lopez imbued his drawings with vitality.
“We’re missing so much of that,” said Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who was installed as the creative director of Kenzo in 2019, in a Zoom call earlier this week. “We’re so used to seeing fashion as a straight pose: someone walking toward you, with an expressionless face.”
Baptista became particularly aware of this after the