I like to play a little parlor game to measure a fashion designer’s influence: when you say a brand name, what does a self-proclaimed fashion agnostic see in their mind’s eye? For example: once, in a midtown office elevator, I overheard a totally un-fashion person joke that their compression boot looked like it was designed by Balenciaga. My least streetwear friends know that quote marks belong to Virgil Abloh. And Alessandro Michele has so successfully disseminated his work at Gucci through his madcap gang of musicians, actors, academics, playwrights, and activists that when you say “Gucci,” any vaguely clued-in person will conjure that vintage store-hunter, big-glasses, magpie look.
Or, as of last week, a man in a dress. The fashion rule of thumb goes that as soon as you can identify a look, it’s passé. But the kerfuffle over Harry Styles wearing a Gucci dress on the cover of Vogue